Massawa
The port of Massawa, which lies 100km (62mi) to the northeast of Asmara, has
long been a cultural sponge because of its deep Red Sea harbour, used over
many centuries by various foreign traders and invaders - the latter included
the Turks, who squatted on the premises for over 300 years, the Egyptians and
the Italians, all of whom left their own individually exotic architectural
legacies. Most of Massawa was bombed into the dust by Ethiopian forces during
Eritrea's struggle for independence, but the town was rebuilt during peaceful
pauses throughout the 1990s according to a plan that restricted the heights of
buildings, limited development and basically sought to replicate the original
feel of the town (or more accurately, how it was prior to its destruction) as
much as possible. Though no longer the 'Pearl of the Red Sea', Massawa is
still an engaging and hassle-free place to visit.
The road from Asmara to Massawa is both spectacular and beautiful. It descends
from 2438m (8000ft) to sea level, with hairpin bends on the escarpment,
and magnificent views over the coastal desert strip. It passes the famous
Orthodox Monastery of Debre Bizen. Massawa was an important centre in ancient
times and remains, to this day, the largest natural deep-water port on the Red
Sea. If Asmara is an ‘Italian’ city, Massawa is ‘Turko-Egyptian’, reflecting
the periods of Ottoman and Egyptian rule from the 16th century to the late
1800s. Dams connect the islands of Batsi and Twalet with the main part of the
city.
The city limits claim two islands, Massawa and Taulud (the administrative
centre), plus a bit of the mainland which is largely residential. Massawa
Island in particular is a great place to explore on foot, with its
labyrinthine streets and its hodge-podge of interesting houses, hotels,
squares and religious buildings. In the side-streets opposite the harbour
you'll find a 17th-century coral-block house, coral having once been the
traditional building material for Massawan abodes, as well as the ancient
Ottoman-style houses of Mammub Mohammed Nahari and Abu Hamdum. Hidden
elsewhere in the precinct are several old covered markets, the 500-year-old
Sheikh Hanafi Mosque, with its stuccowork and stunning Murano chandelier,
and the visually splendid Campo, a large square lined with houses that boast
Turkish and Egyptian wood-carved facades. Batsi Island is a good area for
restaurants, cafes and bars; visitors can take a small boat to Sheikh Said
Island (also known as Isola Verde), a favourite picnic spot.
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